Abstract

Ilex guayusa Loes. is a medicinal plant used by people of the Ecuadorian Amazon for treating various diseases and for its stimulating properties. In recent years, several studies have shown this plant to possess a high concentration of phenolic compounds and a high antioxidant potential, allowing it to be used as an ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This research confirms the presence of phenolic compounds between 20.18 and 22.44 mg gallic acid equivalents/mL of total phenols and between 7.50 and 3.80 mg hyperoxide equivalents/Ml of total flavonoids, depending on the solvent used (hydroalcoholic or hydroglyceric) to prepare the extract. The evaluation by GC/MS after silylation reveals the presence of 3-hydroxyflavone, techtochrysin, kaempferol and quercetin. The spectrophotometric method of DPPH (2.2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) verifies high antioxidant activity in the extracts evaluated and in two cosmetic formulations: Hydrophilic (gel) and lipophilic (cream), with activities similar to ascorbic acid and the natural extract of reference from Camellia sinensis. Clinical evaluation of the lipophilic form shows positive results in increasing skin elasticity and firmness in all volunteers. This study verifies the cosmetic potential of I. guayusa, as well as the abundant concentration of phenolic compounds and its influence on antioxidant activity, with an industrial use in cosmetics, which could become a source of income for the communities where this plant is grown.

Key words: Ilex guayusa, natural cosmetics, polyphenols, antioxidants, skin elasticity, skin firmness.